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庆典:2019全球旗袍邀请展

展览地点:时装馆二楼

展览时间:2019年9月29日 - 2019年11月20日

?序?
【前言】

旗袍是华人最具有代表性的女性服饰之一,在国际化的舞台上,人们常常能看到穿着旗袍的曼妙身影。2017年起的杭州旗袍日活动,致力于将旗袍推向世界,成为联结中外的一座桥梁。js4399金沙线路在2018年成功举办第一届全球旗袍邀请展的一年后,再次举办全球旗袍邀请展。
2019年,中华人民共和国迎来70周年华诞。展览以“庆典”为主题,共邀请俄、英、法、韩、泰、捷克、加纳及中国在内的十余个国家的全球设计师制作四十余件旗袍作品。设计师以旗袍为骨,设计为翼,将自己心中的各式庆典元素铺洒在旗袍之上,创作出一件件精彩绝伦的作品。在这些作品中,我们看见十里红妆的新嫁娘、征伐时尚的俏丽人、望眼东方的洋女郎,以及庆贺新中国诞辰70周年的一张张笑颜如花的脸。展览将展示传统旗袍新的可能性,为传统旗袍在未来的传承提供新的思路。这也是我们对2019国际博协提出的“作为文化中枢的博物馆:传统的未来”主题的一种诠释。
Qipao is one of the most representative dresses of Chinese women. Women are dressing in Qipao all over the world in modern society. The Hangzhou Qipao Festival is working on introducing and using Qipao to connect the world since 2017. In 2019, China National Silk Museum hosts the second Global Qipao Invitational Exhibition a year after the first exhibition. 

China will have her 70th birthday in 2019. The exhibition themed in “Celebration”, has invited designers from over 10 countries to design over 40 Qipaos. Designers have used their talent and imagination to present diverse elements of “Celebration” on their design. From the Qipaos they created, we will meet a happy young bride, we can face a fashion office lady and beautiful wish for the birthday of China. This Exhibition will show the new possibility of fashion a traditional Qipao could have, and reconsider how traditional Qipao inherits in a new century. This exhibition is also an annotation to ICOM’s theme in 2019. 


第一单元 旗裙礼服/ The Party
【单元说明】
礼服,是庆典上永恒的主旋律。人们为以最美的姿态庆祝而身着各式各样的盛装,这些盛装会是东方典雅的旗袍,也会是西方华丽的裙装。当东方之美与西方之艳相遇,衍生出贤淑温雅的东方旗袍、华丽跳脱的旗式礼裙、端庄俏丽的旗式正装,在这一片光影交错的宴会场上自信张扬地展现光彩。

Formal dress is the eternal theme of the celebration. People are wearing all kinds of dresses to show their most charming impression in celebration. These dresses may be the elegant eastern Qipao, or the gorgeous gown from the west. When the beauty of the east meets the beauty of the west, the elegant Oriental Qipao, the flowery jumping flag dress and the elegant flag dress are derived.


一、 旗袍风采
【展品文字】
1. 天圆地方 – 潘静怡   Harmony – Helen Pun

? 作品介绍
作品以嫁衣为题,庆祝建国70年。《天圆地方》融合中西嫁衣的原素,橘红色的旗袍闪耀着亮丽的人生,以其优雅的气度混合西式拖尾长纱的气派。拖尾长纱长达七米,以波浪锁边做层次,每10层一组共70层,立体花刺绣夹于每组中间,喻意70年拾级而上的光辉岁月,亦显示我们中国人坚毅不屈、为未来的繁荣璀璨同心向前的精神。作品还创造性地使用了一对配在襟上的龙凤扣,用上甲骨文的龙凤两字、分别配上圆及方形,以天圆地方的宇宙观,喻意我们以坚固团结的根基顺应环境的变动,体现家国和谐的理念。
Harmony seeks to weave the essence of Chinese and western cultures into this wedding gown. The red Qipao expresses the elegance and finesse of our tradition whereas the long train is stylistic of a western wedding dress. The red organza train, with ostrich feather trimmings, is seven meters long; filled with 70 layers of ruffles with Chinese embroidery in between; metaphoric of our 70th anniversary of the founding of the PRC and the gradual rise to prosperity. It seeks to express our indomitable and unyielding spirit and the harmony we have built over the years. A pair of dragon and phoenix embroidery placed as corsage on the Qipao, is designed to pay homage to our oracle bone script and is symbolic of a harmonious marriage. The concept of using round and rectangular shape for the dragon and phoenix embroidery is drawn from the eight trigrams and the hemispherical dome cosmology model in Chinese astronomy – the physical embodiment of the spherical heaven and the flat earth. This speaks of the wisdom of finding the right balance and harmony in a relationship and in a world of changes.
? 作者介绍
从艺前从事金融业。现为多媒体艺术家 - 习中国书法、水墨画、油画、陶瓷、雕塑、装置、时装设计及创作新媒体。毕业于澳洲皇家墨尔本理工大学; 英国赫尔大学。现专注为高订时装设计师,以多媒体及当代艺术原素注入她的服装作品中。

A banker-turned artist, practices art in multi-disciplines - Chinese calligraphy & ink painting, oil painting, ceramics, sculpture, installation, fashion design and creative media. She holds a Master of Fine Art degree from the RMIT University, Melbourne (with distinction); and a MBA degree from the University of Hull, UK (with distinction). She is now a fashion artist, focusing on haute couture fashion designed with a fine art element.


2. 花绽苦难次第开 - 刘林溪  Flowers Bloom, Sufferings Disappear –Minrisot Liu


? 作品介绍
这是根据陪妈妈一起战胜病魔的经历创作的,也是为了庆祝母亲顺利度过难关。设计师在住院看护的阶段里深切地体会到家人的陪伴,身体的坚强,以及积极的心态对每一个病人乃至每一个人的重要性。红线表示亲人之间的关心连结,锁绣和埋金绣法绣在血管周围,再以纸雕这种传统工艺,表现拥有美丽花朵纹样的心脏图案,印花加上真实的美丽的鲜花,并用贴近肤色的真丝绡鼓励病人们正视伤痕,以表示这是战胜病魔的勋章。
这件旗袍不仅仅是为了呼吁每一个人都要拥有积极的心态面对病痛和折磨,面对生活中的挫折同样如此,应将磨难视作花朵,用向上的态度迎接生活。一切痛苦都是美好的铺垫,正所谓桥都坚固,隧道都光明,当你拥有了积极的心态后,你的世界也会如这件旗袍一样,由内而外开出花朵。
这件旗袍,就是以设计师之名,为大家制作的荣誉状,借此感谢国家强大的医疗技术,庆祝妈妈成功出院,更是庆祝每一个人战胜困难的勇敢,每一个勇士都应该受到表彰。
This Qipao was made when I accompanied my mother to overcome her pain. This is also a gift to celebrate her recovery from the disease. When I looked after her in the hospital, I deeply felt that the company of one’s family, a powerful body and positive attitudes are essential to every patient and even everyone. I used red thread to symbolize the care and connection between families. Locked stitch and Panjin stitch (traditional Chinese embroidery technique) are adopted around the pattern of vessels. Paper engraving, one kind of traditional art, has been applied to illustrate the pattern of flowers-like heart. I used silk, whose color is close to skin to embroider a medal for those who overcame their pain and help the patient confront the diseases.
I designed this garment to appeal everyone to face the sufferings and difficulties and even to the setbacks with positive minds. They should see hardships as flowers and embrace their lives with positive attitudes. Happiness comes after all the sufferings. As the old saying goes, all the bridges are solid and all the tunnels are bright. Just like this Qipao, when you are positive, your life will bloom with flowers too. To show gratitude to powerful medical technology in China and to celebrate my mother’s recovery and everyone’ bravery to overcome their difficulties, I constructed this garment as the certificate of merit to honor everyone as every warrior should be honored.
? 作者介绍
四川成都人,上海视觉艺术学院时装设计德稻实验班大三学生。擅长用轻盈或是透亮的材质创造出多种多样的视觉体验。对美学的理解浪漫纷呈。

She comes from Chengdu, Sichuan. She is a student from Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, Detao Masters Academy. She is good at using light and bright fabrics to create various kinds of visual experience. She has deep understandings of aesthetics and hopes to continue explore the area of Arts and Humanities.


3. 橄榄旗愿 - 李平兰 Olive Wish – Pinglan Li

? 作品介绍
本款旗袍采用重磅正娟真丝面料,前襟用打籽绣橄榄花枝图案,籍以祝愿我们的祖国繁荣昌盛,国泰民安,祈福世界和平。
This Qipao used Silk Textile, with the olive embroidery at the front, representing our country’s prosperity, and wishing peace for the whole world. 
? 作者介绍
东方美学倡导品牌衡韵雅序——首席设计师,致力于寻找一种传统与现代同流贯脉的途径,一种承继发扬 并活化于当下的新东方风尚。

Chief Designer of Hamin Remix, she dedicated to the search for a coherence way of traditional and modern, to both inherit and develop a New Oriental Fashion. 


4. 麒麟玉书 - 吴妍仪 Jade Book and Kylin – Yen-I Wu

? 作品介绍
本嫁衣制作以改良式旗袍为外廓,大胆使用鹿港工艺师傅设计的麒麟玉书刺绣。依照麒麟的动态,胸口挖空呈现葫芦形状,整体以红、白亮色布料左前、后高低回旋的衔接,玉书放在背面肩上,得以前后呼应,左前开叉装饰红色流苏。“麒麟玉书”取吉祥瑞气之意,在传统中式的婚礼习俗中,新娘房的床头会安一张麒麟符,祈求得麒麟子。本制作以大幅粤绣(潮绣)安置正面,色彩以金色为主,以手工绣出三角龙鳞片,五彩边线为纸卷管,高凸部份内以棉花包葱布。领子上的一对花扣,出自台湾丽丽旗袍花扣师傅蔡蕊女士之手,衣钵传承上海的手工方式制作,此双色花扣从扣条上浆、埋铁丝、缝合至花型拗线、曲线修饰,呈现精致秀雅之气,以金、红两色呼应新嫁衣富贵之气氛(粤绣提供:台湾鹿港寅福绣庄)。
This is a modified Qipao dress with the design of Kylin and Jade book embroidery. Red and blue are the basic colors of the dress. “Jade book and Kylin” is representing the happiness and fortune. In the local traditions, bride’s bedside will need to stick an amulet of Kylin, praying for kids. 
? 作者介绍
巴黎凡尔赛艺术学院造型艺术系硕士毕业,现任职辅仁大学织品服裝学系专任助理教授。近期为布料实验、设计、时尚画探讨,以关怀女性身体、人文、生态环境为主要议题。
She has lived in France for 7 years, planned and curated about 20 exhibitions. She is an assistant professor of the department of Textiles & Clothing, College of Fashion & Textiles, Fu Jen Catholic University. Her recent research is mainly about caring women’s body, humanity and ecotope.  


5. 女儿花嫁 - 吴伯玲  Daughter to Bride –Poling Wu

? 作品介绍
本作品是在人、衣、空间之中,以人的形体为起源,扩充形体之外的形体,在纱线浮空围绕成型的空间中演绎着由女体(女性身体自主权)、血脉(延续生命的天职)、成长(花样般的年纪出嫁)三个元素所构筑而成的嫁衣。深红色的车线、大红色的缎带和蕾丝,增生成一块面料,并且以环绕的方式构筑成一件旗袍领洋装。两种红色为主色,传递了新旧血脉延续的讯息、并呈现出嫁衣的吉祥喜气。在嫁衣的正背面处,各置入了一个由缎带所构筑出的女体线条。散落的蕾丝花片则呈现出花样般的待嫁女儿与母亲之间的传承,象征一个少女即将进入少妇的成长过程。
Using the shape of human as the origin, and expand a form other than it. The floating thread has created a dress that holds three elements of woman’s body, blood relationship and maturity. The different kinds of red pass messages of the happiness, blood relationship with mother and daughter, and the growing process of a new young bride has just become mature. 
? 作者介绍
英国诺丁汉传德大学织品服裝系硕士毕业,现职辅仁大学织品服裝学系助理教授。近期专注研究从线性与无缝的角度切入,重新将服裝设计回到最基本的组成——线,用车缝技术创造3D结构,寻找无限变化的设计参数。

Master degree of Textiles & Clothing, now she working as the assistant professor of The Department of Textiles & Clothing, College of Fashion & Textiles, Fu Jen Catholic University. Her recent research focuses on the basic part of the clothes, which is the thread. Her research concentrates in the perspectives of seamless linearity, creating 3-dimentional structure by sewing.


二、旗式礼服
6. 多样礼裙 Many in One– Ophelia Crossland

? 作品介绍
内裙是加纳特有纹样的短窄裙,披上红色罩裙,背后优雅的小披肩,整体耀眼夺目,是庆祝宴上最显眼的主角。施华洛世奇水晶组成的纹样星星点点点缀腰间,是庆祝的焰火,绽放的玫瑰。设计师重点保留了旗袍元素中的立领要点以及盘扣特色,完美结合了中、西、加纳的文化特色。
This is a dress include all different elements. With a short narrow skirt inside, and a red tunic outside, the whole dress presents an elegant temperament to be the main theme of the feast. There are some Swarovski crystals on the tunic, like the fireworks, or the roses. The collar uses the Qipao feature which blends in the Chinese gentle for the whole dress. 
? 作者介绍
泛非主义者,奢侈品设计师,妻子,两个孩子的母亲。她兼收并蓄的风格和设计反映了生活、乐观和幽默,并饱含家族的致敬。她通过学习掌握了将色彩、面料和设计融合在一起的技巧,以此创造了许多杰出的作品。
A Pan-Africanist, a luxury fashion designer, a wife, and a mother of two.  Her eclectic style and design reflect life, optimism, and humor, while paying homage to her roots. Learning and eventually attaining mastery over colors, fabrics, and designs, she developed the skill of blending there three elements to create her masterpieces. 

7. 时尚战袍 - Laichan

? 作品介绍
时尚是一场轰轰烈烈的战斗,身上的服饰就是女性最出色的战袍。艳丽的红色透露出女性热烈的美丽,金色裁边则是优雅的表现。与传统收身旗袍不同,紧致的剪裁的上身设计下,设计师释放了裙摆,使女性行动时拥有更加舒适的空间。作品融合新潮与古典,吹响向时尚进军的号角。
Fashion is another kind of war, and the dress will be women’s most outstanding armor. This dress tightened the upper body, but released the lower body so women will have more space when they are moving. The designer used read as the main color to show how passion a beauty can be, in the meantime, he also use the  gold cutting edge to present the elegance. 
? 作者介绍
新加坡时尚设计师,凭借出色的旗袍设计、对时尚的敏锐触觉和对美与品质的执着追求,风靡当地时尚圈。他设计了令人惊艳难忘的各式晚礼服和婚纱,这些时尚作品结合传统技术和新的风格影响的独创性,给人以永恒舒适的视觉享受。
Lai Chan is a Singapore fashion designer, best known for his beautiful designs of the figure-flattering Chinese Cheong Sam, or the Qipao. With his refined fashion sensibilities and unwavering commitment towards beauty and quality, Lai Chan has earned a reputable name in the local fashion circuit.Lai Chan creates unforgettable, stunning pieces of evening gowns and wedding dresses. These fashion pieces are timeless, comfortable, and come about from ingenuity of combining traditional techniques and newer style influences.

8. 墨?色 - 周梦   I?N?K –Meng Zhou

? 作品介绍
本作品为旗袍式小礼服,以不同材质的黑色面料进行质感的对比,模拟水墨画中深浅不一的“墨色”——以黑色蕾丝作为底色,以黑色缎带进行结构分割,以黑色绡片装饰分割线。
作品为不对称设计,只有一片领子。一侧衣身保持旗袍廓形,袖子为蕾丝质地旗袍式短袖;另一侧衣身为时装礼服廓形,侧缝中拖曳出十二组螺旋形裙片,似展开的凤尾;袖子为雪纺的礼服式长袖,肩部打褶,“盛开”着黑色的薄纱花朵,袖口的金属中国结成为通体深深浅浅“墨色”中的一抹银白。
This is a grown in the Qipao’s structure. It used different materials in the black colors to show the different  “Ink” in a ink painting. This dress is asymmetrical, there is a one-side collar. One side of the dress remains the Qipao structure is the short sleeve like a Qipao, the other side changes to the fashion gown’s structurewith a wide spread dress and a long sleeve. 
? 作者介绍
周梦,女,博士。中央民族大学美术学院教授,硕士研究生导师。两项国家社科基金项目主持人。时装设计作品多次参加时装艺术国际展,作品《草?木?石》入选第13届全国美展。

Meng Zhou, Ph.D. The professor and research supervisor of Fine Art College , Minzu University of China, the host of two program of The National Social Science Fund of China. Her designs have participated International Fashion and Art Exhibition. Her work “Grass?Tree?Stone” was selected to participated the China Fine Art Exhibition. 


9. 冇- 赵伟伟   MAO – Weiwei Zhao


? 作品介绍
材料:橡胶、纱、空气
取自汉字“冇”,空无之意,作品尝试探究无形介质——“空气”对于时装造型的改变。整个系列以平面裁剪的形式展现,通过充气的形式将平面服装变得立体生动,以此来诠释中国传统文化里的“有”跟“无”之间相互关系。
Material: Rubber, Yarn, Air
Inspired by the Chinese character“冇”, which means empty. This work tries to explore the change of fashion style by the invisible medium –“air”. This whole collection is presented in the form of plane cutting. Flat clothes become more three-dimensional and vivid by inflating. In order to interpret the relationship between “有” and “冇” in Chinese traditional culture.
? 作者介绍
毕业于中央美术学院时装设计专业,曾多次获得国内、国际时尚设计大赛金、银奖项,作品多次参加北京时装艺术国际展等艺术设计展览,设计方向涉及皮草设计、皮具设计、首饰设计等。

Weiwei Zhao graduated from the fashion design department of Central Academy of Fine Arts. He has won several gold and silver awards in domestic and international fashion design contests. His works have participated in many exhibitions such as Beijing Fashion Art International Exhibition. He focuses on fur design, leather design, jewelry design and so on.


10. Mermaid Recall – 严宜舒  Yishu Yan

? 作品介绍
为此次展览特别制作的《Mermaid Recall》的是基于我博士课题研究成果的新设计,设计构思是为现代美人鱼制作一件新中式的旗袍嫁衣。作品用浓郁的中国红色象征庆祝与喜悦,用特殊的针织物结构设计模拟水波纹及美人鱼尾。面料肌理与弹性并存的特性使得其一面包裹住身体,另一面又因包裹被身体撑开,从而显露出肌肤。伴随着身体的运动,服装在肌理与弹性、包裹与裸露、束缚与自由之间不断游走,反思了旗袍、面料及穿着者之间的互动关系。
Mermaid Recall is a design based on the Ph.D project. The concept is to make a New Chinese style Qipao gown for a mermaid. The Red stands for celebration and joy in Chinese culture, the special knitted fabric design is a stimulation of wave and the tail of mermaid. This dress is showing diverse parts with body movements, struggling in tighten and freedom, reconsidered the interaction between Qipao and wearer. 
? 作者介绍
香港理工大学纺织及制衣学系博士研究生,主要从事针织材料创新与服装设计研究。作品曾在多国各地区展出并获奖。

PhD. Candidate in Fashion and Textile Design, HK PolyU. Her works have been awarded and exhibited in several areas of diverse countries. 


三、旗式正装

11. Night Dress– Natali Ruden

? 作品介绍
经典的西式小礼裙配上蕾丝的中式旗袍立领成就了这件独特的裙装。设计师将中西方元素各取部分融入设计中。裙子使用了深蓝代表夜空的色彩,其中闪耀着星光。蕾丝外套则是飘浮于空中暗色的云。
It is a classical western dress with a Chinese Qipao collar. The designer has taken elements from western and eastern fashion and put in her design. The basic color of the dress is the deep blue stands for the color of night sky, there are many stars shining inside. The black lace collar is the cloud floating around. 
? 作者介绍
原创设计师,性格外向。她来自基辅并曾就读基辅著名的服装设计学院,专门从事服装设计。她选择与母亲同样的职业以继续家族事业。她喜欢她的工作,视其为使命。在设计中喜欢运用明亮的颜色,组合不同的材料。

Natali Ruden is a very unique original designer. She was born in Kiev, and studied in a famous fashion design school there. She loves her job and regard it as her mission. She loves to use bright color and challenges different materials in her design works. 


12. 庆鹤C Natali Ruden

? 作品介绍
热烈的红是中国传统的喜庆颜色,而仙鹤更是传统的中国代表吉祥的动物之一。在西方的正装上结合以上中国的庆祝元素,我想打造的是一款跨越国际文化的空缺,在任何地区都能明白的庆祝服饰。
Red is a traditional celebration color in Chinese culture, and crane is an animal stands for happiness in China. I want to put those Chinese celebration elements in a Western formal dress, so all people will know this is a dress for celebration. I want this dress to cross the barrier of language or region, passing a happy message for everyone. 
? 作者介绍
原创设计师,性格外向。她来自基辅并曾就读基辅著名的服装设计学院,专门从事服装设计。她选择与母亲同样的职业以继续家族事业。她喜欢她的工作,视其为使命。在设计中喜欢运用明亮的颜色,组合不同的材料。
Natali Ruden is a very unique original designer. She was born in Kiev, and studied in a famous fashion design school there. She loves her job and regard it as her mission. She loves to use bright color and challenges different materials in her design works. 


13. 映翠 - 洪秀柱

? 作品介绍
沉稳的翠色与明亮的浅绿相结合,展现了一片柔和与华贵的生机。外罩的斑斓五彩宛若花园给人以视觉的美感。设计师曾穿着它出席庆典等重要场合,后藏于js4399金沙线路。
The dress contains many kinds of bright and dark colors, showing greens in noble and lively ways. There are lots of colors on the cover like a garden. This dress is now collected in China National Silk Museum. 
? 作者介绍
出生于中国台湾台北县(今新北市),祖籍浙江省余姚市(原属余姚,现属慈溪)。先后毕业于台湾中国文化大学法律系,美国东北密苏里州立大学(现杜鲁门州立大学)教育硕士。中国国民党首位女主席,曾多次访问大陆地区。

Born in Taipei county, Taiwan province, China. She graduated from the law department of China Culture University in Taiwan and master of education in Northeast Missouri State University (now Truman State University). The first female President of the kuomintang (KMT), she has visited the mainland many times.


14. 夜色璀璨 - Ryan Lo

? 作品介绍
旗袍正装通常以成年女性为主体,然而少女也应该拥有属于自己年纪的青春又不失端庄的服饰。因此设计师设计了这款以少女为穿着目标设计的旗袍裙,拥有着蕾丝、闪片、衣带和连衣裙等多种少女元素。
Qipao is usually wearing by adult women, which is not fit and fair for teenage girls. I think they should have a Qipao element dress for their age, so I design this dress contain elements like lace, bows, Qipao and dress, which are very popular in teen girls groups. 
? 作者介绍
香港设计师罗子皓,创立了同名品牌Ryan Lo,目前在伦敦发展。非科班设计师出身,但有着非常出色的理念和思考。
Hong Kong designer Lo tzu-hao founded his eponymous brand Ryan Lo, which is developing in London. He did not learn design in school, but he has a great sense and concept to fashion. 

第二单元 交融文化/ The Cultures
【单元说明】
作为最具有文化代表性的服饰,旗袍所蕴含的文化和传统底蕴十分深厚。随着世界交流不断加深,中华传统文化与世界各式文化有了交汇之处。旗袍,在设计师眼中不是仅能传达单一文化的载体。来自海内外的设计师在庆典的主题下,结合文化异同,挑战旗袍承载文化的极限,成功制作出许多贯穿古今、串联中外的出色作品。

As the most representative cultural clothing, Qipao contains profound cultural meaning and traditions inside. While the communication of world become more often, the traditional Chinese culture gets chance to converge with other cultures all over the world. Qipao, from designers’ perspectives, will not remain as the carrier of a single culture. Under the theme of “celebration”, designers from the world, combined with cultural similarities and differences, challenged the limitation of Qipao, and successfully produced many excellent works throughout the ancient and modern times, connecting China and foreign countries.


一、传统交融
15. Best of both world - Paulina Andreeva

? 作品介绍
这个设计的理念是融合中国传统造型和俄罗斯装饰。它象征着俄罗斯和中国文化与现代生活方式的融合。它代表了一个对自己国家的传统感兴趣,又与现代现实保持联系的年轻女孩形象。
灵感的主要来源是用一种创新的方式进行的旗袍。旗袍的关键元素,如立领和装饰紧固件,与俄罗斯传统服装特有的喇叭轮廓和褶裥混搭在一起。红色与展览的主题关联,象征着喜悦、爱和庆祝。白色用于领子和镶边增添了裙子的清新感。这条裙子为特定场合设计,但也可以在日常生活中穿,以贯彻“每一天都很特别”的理念。
The dress is called "The best of both worlds". The concept of this design is a fusion of traditional Chinese shape and Russian ornament. It symbolizes the integration of Russian and Chinese culture with the modern lifestyle. It represents a young girl who is interested in traditions of her own country but stays in touch with the modern reality.
The main source of inspiration is Qipao. It was approached in an innovative way. The key elements of Qipao such as stand collar and decorative fasteners were mixed with the flared silhouette and pleats specific to the Russian traditional costume. The red color symbolizes joy, love and celebration, which relates to the topic of the exhibition. The white color, used for the collar and piping, gives the dress a fresh look. This dress is for special occasions but can also be worn in everyday life supporting the idea that every day is special.
? 作者介绍
宝琳娜来自于俄罗斯圣彼得堡的圣彼得堡工业设计学院。在校就读时期,曾多次参加国际赛事与展览。
Paulina Andreeva is a fashion design student of Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design (SUITD) in Saint Petersburg, Russia. During the university years she has successfully participated in international contests and exhibitions. 


16. Aqua Fantasy - Seung-Eun Oh

? 作品介绍
设计的灵感来源于曙光,指的是一个蕴含着曲线与多重色彩的概念,作品的主题则是表现星辉与曙光相交映于天空。这是一套两个部件的服装,主颜色为蔚蓝色,黄色的小外套覆盖在蔚蓝的裙子之上,裙子下摆绣有新曙光散落形象的珠饰。
The concept is “Aurora”, and the subject is “Stars and auroras pouring into the night sky”. This design is in the form of a jump suit. It’s also a two-piece design. The overall color is Cerulean blue. As with the above design, the points were yellow above and below. As above, the Aurora spills itself into pants to further maximize the Aurora’s effect. 
? 作者介绍
首尔女子大学学生。参与多场设计,并在教授指导下制作设计并参与各类活动。

College student of Seoul Women’s University, her works have participate several fashion events under her professor’s supervising. 


17. 质朴 – 月白*Labelhood

? 作品介绍
短款格子纹旗袍,对袖子进行了时尚改良,使穿着时更好的衬托肩部及臂部。
Short qipao in lattice patern with modified fashionable sleeves so they will fit better fot the shoulders and arms. 
? 作者介绍
月白与labelhood合作的系列。这是一次跨品牌之间的联手,打造旗袍设计的时尚盛宴。
The collarboration series between two designers, and also two brands. They work together for a fashion gala of Qipao. 

18. 军绿 – 月白*Labelhood


? 作品介绍
短款军绿色旗袍,对袖子进行了时尚改良,使穿着时更好的衬托肩部及臂部。
Short qipao in army green colory with modified fashionable sleeves so they will fit better fot the shoulders and arms. 
? 作者介绍
月白与labelhood合作的系列。这是一次跨品牌之间的联手,打造旗袍设计的时尚盛宴。

The collarboration series between two designers, and also two brands. They work together for a fashion gala of Qipao. 


19. 髦儿戏 - 陈昕琰 Peking Opera - Sissy Chen

? 作品介绍
这次的主题我选择的是中国传统文化——京剧。灵感是来源于电影《霸王别姬》,我被这部电影中的光影效果所打动,几处铺天盖地的大红色调,几乎能把银屏点燃。服装的装饰图案是根据京剧中旦角的基本手势动作进行变化发展的,将手势的形态进行抽象化处理,这个抽象化出的图案是对中国传统文化“形韵”的表达。服装材质上利用了古老悠久的羊毛毡技术,用这种技术制作的图案不会有很强的轮廓感,可以营造一种山水画作朦胧的美感,从而去呼应电影中的光影和色调。刺绣的部分利用了锁针绣针法,蔓延盘浮在服装上的锁针绣对图案起到了一定的装饰作用,使图案有了体量感。
The theme that I have chosen is Beijing Opera, Chinese traditional culture. I am inspired by the movie “Farewell My Concubine” and deeply touched by lighting effects in it. Red can be seen everywhere in the movie, almost lightning the screen. Decorative patterns are evolved and abstracted from the basic finger movements of female roles in Beijing Opera. The abstracted pattern is the expression of Chinese traditional culture “shape of rhyme”. I selected wool felting technique to avoid rigid lines. I intended to create a kind of hazy feeling just like landscape painting to echo the lighting and hue in the movie. I used decorative lockstitch on the embroidery that has also made the motif more three dimensional.
? 作者介绍
陈昕琰,上海视觉艺术学院服装设计大三学生。两次为SIRLOIN品牌时装秀后台工作,曾在STAFFONLY工作室实习。

A student from Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, Detao Masters Academy, has been awarded third-class scholarship. She was a backstage helper for SIRLON fashion show twice, also an intern for STAFFONLY Studio. 


20. 好一朵美丽的茉莉花 – 余嫿


? 作品介绍
来自香港的祝贺祖国70周年诞辰。灵感来源于1997年6月30日香港回归祖国的交接仪式上,中国军乐队演奏的第一首乐曲,江苏民歌——《好一朵美丽的茉莉花》。
A wish from Hong Kong, celebrates the 70th birthday of China. The inspiration is the first music playing at the ceremony of Hong Kong return in 1997, “Jasmine”.
? 作者介绍
热爱设计和艺术。毕业于香港理工大学设计学院设计硕士和时装设计学士。2011年获选香港十大杰出青年。
Loves design and arts. Graduated from Hong Kong polytechnic university with a master's degree in design and a bachelor's degree in fashion design. In 2011, she was selected as one of ten outstanding young people in Hong Kong.


二、技艺交流

21. 首尔之夜 - Hye-In Song
? 作品介绍
作品灵感来源于首尔之夜。首尔的夜晚比其他任何城市城市热闹,夜景也更加美丽。聚焦于夜晚的明亮灯光,作品的设计主题产生了:闪烁于街道的霓虹灯、夜间繁忙的工作者,以及首尔塔。设计中加入了韩国元素,使用了“jokagbo”(韩国传统文化板)作为补丁细节。
What I am inspired by is Seoul Night. The night of Seoul is busier than any other city, and the night view of Seoul is more beautiful than any other city. I focused on the bright lights at night. The neon signs shining on the streets, the busy workers at night, and the “Namsan Tower” became my design motif. 
I want to include Korean elements in the design, so I used “Jokabo” (Korean traditional slabs) and knots.
? 作者介绍
首尔女子大学学生。参与多场设计,并在教授指导下制作设计并参与各类活动。

College student of Seoul Women’s University. She and her works have participated in several fashion events under her professor’s supervising. 


22. 合奏之绣 – Ashdeen Lilaowala

? 作品介绍
ASHDEEN品牌创造手工刺绣纱丽和时装的灵感来自东方。对于全球的旗袍展览,设计师认为将中国和印度的元素融合在一起可以创造出很理想的旗袍纱丽裙。
设计师在一个旗袍的轮廓上创作,其中上身为完全刺绣与暗色调,下面的褶裥采用印度锦缎丝绸。披在肩上的纱丽面板用透明硬纱面料制成,上面绣满了鸟和花,菊花、牡丹、玫瑰与仙鹤和天堂鸟交织在一起,充满了异国情调,这件旗袍的目标是无缝地融合两个古老的刺绣传统,创造一个现当代的合奏之美。
At ASHDEEN, we create hand-embroidered saris and fashion inspired by the Orient. For the Global Qipao exhibition, we thought it would be ideal to amalgamate the Chinese and Indian elements to create a Qipao-Sari dress. 
We plan to create a Qipao silhouette in which the upper body will be fully embroidered with tonal shades. The below drape will be with an Indian brocade silk. The sari panel, which is draped over the shoulder, will be done in Organza fabric. It will be fully embroidered with exotic birds and flowers. Chrysanthemums, peonies, roses will be intertwined with flying cranes and birds of paradise. Our goal is to seamlessly blend two ancient embroidery traditions to create a modern, contemporary ensemble.
? 作者介绍
纺织品设计师,他的品牌通过创作当代时尚,专注于帕西加拉刺绣的传统艺术。他的作品在新德里的旗舰店内零售,众多名流都曾穿过他制作的莎丽服。

Ashdeen Z. Lilaowala is a Textile Designer specializing in the traditional art of Parsi Gara embroidery through contemporary fashion creations under his label ASHDEEN. Ashdeen retails his creations through his flagship store in New Delhi. His saris have been worn by Oprah Winfery and Bollywood superstars Madhuri Dixit and Sonam Kapoor Ahuja.


23. 锦绣印月 - 张义超

? 作品介绍
“红艳袅烟疑欲语,素华映月只闻香。剪裁偏得东风意,淡薄似矜西子妆”
在蒙蒙细雨中,找寻属于自己内心的独一无二的美丽,承载江南文化的那份宁静,与牡丹比邻而居。
这一婚嫁旗袍的材料选择了色织真丝织锦缎为材料,以大面积金色为设计因子,辅以蓝,红细线条,一切缘份皆一根根线条而紧密相连。在万物中,金碧辉煌中有牡丹之花的花语,还有湖中三潭印月,与日月相连。犹如一幅画卷,是西湖曼妙的景致。同时寓意世界文化与中国传统文化的连接,使中国文化走向世界。作品采用了中国的传统手工推绣与西湖文化相融合,寄予锦绣中华和美丽江南的息息相关。通过金色的色彩,富贵牡丹,表达未来的美好向往与祝愿!
Finding the own beauty in the drizzle and living with the peony. This Qipao is using gold color with blue and red lines stands for the connections of cultures and karma. The Westlake patterns are hand-made embroidery, showing the pretty sights of Southern Yangtze. The golden color and the peony are traditional Chinese symbols for wishes, wish our country will get better and better in the future. 
? 作者介绍
张义超毕业于浙江丝绸工学院服装设计专业,后从事服装设计和开发工作,期间参加一些服装设计比赛,获得各类奖项。创办了杭州薰香服饰有限公司和杭州香舍服饰有限公司,任总经理和设计总监,主持“薰香”、“玫瑰香舍”、“CiCiCi西西可”三个品牌的设计工作。

Yichao Zhang graduated from Zhejiang Sci-tech University. She is a fashion designer, has received lots of awards. She also creates 3 brands and is the chief designer of those brands. 


24. 海峡群岛针织旗袍 - 两国多地合作

? 作品介绍
我们在Beth老师的传统欧洲针织工坊里学习并制作了英国群岛海峡地区(Channel Island)的Gansey毛衣。这一次,我们结合所学,为此旗袍项目虚拟出一个中国女孩旅行至北英国渔民岛的场景。她受到当地民间毛织文化的启发,为自己制作一件融合了英国渔民毛衫风格的中国旗袍,以作旅行纪念。她选用了汉代画像砖的捕鱼图作灵感,重新编排在旗袍周身,凸显地域风格的交融感。我们进入她的思维,为她达成心愿。
At our knitting workshop, we learned about the Gansey knitting culture in the Channel Islands. We imagine a Chinese girl who travelled there and impressed by the knitting craft and wool of the fishing communities.  She decided to knit a bridal outfit for her own wedding – a qipao with Chinese patterns. The patterns she chose are mythical images of fishes from the Han Dynasty images. We dived into her thoughts, did the knitting job for her. On the cold windy island, the chunky Qipao would be her special dress, showing her Chinese identity and adaptation of the local craft.
? 作者介绍
Beth Brown-Reinsel,美国,2019年js4399金沙线路女工传习馆欧洲传统针织工作坊特邀老师。Beth老师兼本次旗袍项目的工作顾问。
张西美,中国香港,js4399金沙线路女工传习馆工作坊工作顾问。张西美老师兼本次旗袍项目的工作协助。
郭江,服装设计师,中国美术学院毕业。
严宜舒,香港理工大学时尚与纺织设计专业在读博士,针织方向。
张虹,中国江苏,手工编织爱好者,郭江的母亲。
胡友玉,中国香港,欧洲传统针织工作坊助教。
Beth Brown-Reinsel, USA, instructor for CNSM 2019 Textile Workshop:  European Traditional Knitting Workshop, advisor to Qipao project
Edith Cheung Sai May, Hong Kong, consultant for CNSM Textile Workshop, co-ordinator
Guo Jiang, fashion designer, graduate of China Academy of Art
Yan Yishu, PhD. Candidate in Fashion and Textile Design, HK PolyU,
Zhang Hong, Guo Jiang’s mother, an accomplished knitter

Hu Yiu Yu, Hong Kong, (knitting workshop teaching assistant)


三、面料交织

25. 阿富汗之舞Afghan Dress – Zarlashta Jalalzai

? 作品介绍
设计师向设计一件当代阿富汗的服装。紧身胸衣和袖子的下半部都有阿富汗传统婚礼上仍然使用的传统刺绣工艺。希望裙子的设计与传统不同,添加了一些西方的颜色。因此裙子整体用传统的阿坦舞中使用的方巾制成,色彩艳丽,有如丝绸一般颜色漂亮。其中珠饰是手工制作的。这是一件混合了西方的色彩和传统阿富汗服装作品。缝合由手工完成,最后以缝纫机连接。
I wanted to design a piece of contemporary Afghan clothes. The bodice and the lower parts of the sleeves are all traditional embroidery which is still used in traditional weddings of Afghanistan. I wanted the skirt to be designed differently from the original ones and I wanted to add some western colors to it. So I made the whole skirt from the kerchiefs that are beautifully colored and resembles silk. Those kerchiefs are used during the traditional dance atan. The bead work is also done by hand. I wanted to introduce a piece of traditional afghan clothing with a mixture of western colors. I sewed all by my hands and only combined them all with a machine. The jewelries are also traditional Afghan jewelries.
? 作者介绍
设计师和裁缝。她在8年级因为战争离开喀布尔和她的学校去了加兹尼省,开始缝制衣服。在加兹尼住了三年之后,她由于父亲过世回到喀布尔。她决定开一家自己的店,培训年轻女孩的设计和时装。
Zarlashta lalzai is a designer and tailor. She left Kabul as well as her school in 8th grade and went to ghazni province because of the war and started sewing cloths there. She then decided to open a place of her own to train young girls in designing and fashion.


26. 青金白衣 White Dress – Zarlashta Jalalzai

? 作品介绍
白衣的设计灵感来自于设计师从中国、中国人民和中国古代历史中获得的信息。中国制作服饰总是采用最漂亮的面料,比如丝绸,因此设计了一件绣有天蓝色宝石和银色金属的白色丝绸连衣裙。设计师首先在阿富汗当地购买了丝绸的面料,之后获得其他部分的材料完成心中的设计。
The designing idea of the white coat came from the information that I had from china, the people of china and the ancient history of china. What I knew was that they always used the most beautiful fabrics for instance, silk. This made me think of a dress made of white silk with embroidery, azure stones and silver colored metal on it. First, I purchased the fabric which they told me is silk, however, I exactly do not know what percentage is really silk. Then I purchased the rest of the materials. After, I had all the materials, I started to make the design I had in my mind.
? 作者介绍
设计师和裁缝。她在8年级因为战争离开喀布尔和她的学校去了加兹尼省,开始缝制衣服。在加兹尼住了三年之后,她由于父亲过世回到喀布尔。她决定开一家自己的店,培训年轻女孩的设计和时装。
Zarlashta lalzai is a designer and tailor. She left Kabul as well as her school in 8th grade and went to ghazni province because of the war and started sewing cloths there. She then decided to open a place of her own to train young girls in designing and fashion.

27. Thai-Lamphun – Chombongkod Pattanawit

? 作品介绍
这件衣服的设计灵感来自于一位在泰国出生和长大的(泰籍)华裔设计师,因此这件作品完美地融合了泰中两种文化。中国的传统旗袍的设计形式结合泰国南奔丝绸面料,向我们展现了两国美丽文化的独特魅力。(注:南奔是泰国北部一个地名,以盛产传统泰丝绸为名)备。
This dress is combining the cultures of Thailand and China. The traditional Qipao structure with the material from Thailand Lamphun, shows how charming both the cultures are.  
? 作者介绍
“Chombongkod”品牌由泰国时装设计师Chombongkod Pattanawit女士创立。她毕业于泰国Kalawin学院服装设计专业。在近40年的时尚领域,专注于新娘礼服、泰国礼服、卡拉礼服和特殊礼服设计。她的作品还在泰国、美国、法国和英国等不同的时装秀上展出。
“Chombongkod” brand was originated by Ms.Chombongkod Pattanawit, Thai fashion designer. She was graduated from Kalawin Institution, Thailand in the field of fashion design. She was an instructor in fashion design in Supranee institution, Bangkok, Thailand. Throughout almost 40 years in the field of fashion, Chombongkod specializes in bridal dress, Thai dress, Kala dress and special event dress. Her works were published in several magazines. Her workpieces were also shown in various catwalk events such as in Thailand, USA, French, and UK.  


第三单元 旗解风尚/ The Fashion

【单元说明】
传统旗袍自19世纪初起慢慢定型,在当时打破了封建保守的旧制,引领新潮。也许正因为如此,即使在以一种廓形为大众接受的现在,旗袍也从未守在一方框架之中,设计师放飞灵感,冲击古典、撞碎廓形的壁垒,重新解读旗袍蕴含的时尚潜能。当传统旗袍与摩登碰撞,当新式旗袍成为席卷世界的新风尚,这将会是一场以旗袍衍生的时尚界庆典。
Back to the 19th century, when Qipao first broke all the old regulation, it lead a new fashion to the society. Even in modern, Qipao is still not satisfied to remain in a typical shape. The fashion designers are using their inspirations to break through all the wall and structures, to reinterpret the potential possibility of fashion in a Qipao. When tradition meets modern, Qipao is once again becoming a new fashion to the society, celebrating the Qipao’s legend. 


一、艺术之歌

28. 阴阳之境 - Hana Hevelkova

? 作品介绍
结合明与暗,阴与阳,对立又交融达成和谐。在这明暗夹缝中,红色如同是一道将两侧分开的境界线,同时又巧妙地把两者紧锁。在空间中有纷纷飞腾起的群鸟,为静谧的阴阳作品增添不一样的生机。这是自然在每一天黄昏之时的特色庆典。
This dress has combined brightness and darkness harmoniously, just like Yin and Yang in Taichi. The red line is a line that divide the two sides but in the meantime locked them together to create a space, in that space there are birds flying around, make the whole dress become more vivid. This is a special celebration the nature has everyday during the dusk. 
? 作者介绍
出生于布拉格,以晚礼服和婚纱设计闻名。她的设计受到上个世纪的建筑的巨大影响——立体主义、功能主义、建构主义和包豪斯。她的作品以高贵、精确阐述与优雅的女性线条为特点。
Born in Prague. The architecture of the past century has influenced her at most - cubism, functionalism, constructivism, and Bauhaus .Her cloths exceed of evident nobleness, precise elaboration with the feeling for elegant feminine lines. She is well known for evening and wedding dresses.


29. Qipao of Love - Angelo Cruciani

? 作品介绍
这是一件象征爱与柔情的旗袍,如同一面旗帜呼唤并将爱作为最美的装饰。心形是一个通用的标志,代表着团结与集会。中国流行歌手的情歌是Angelo Cruciani设计这件旗袍的灵感来源。几乎所有中国歌曲都是以情感为主题。如同每位女子渴望的关注一样,爱是世界的中心,同时也是使每位女子都散发如同阿芙洛狄忒(爱的女神)一般光彩的护身符。
This is meant to be the Qipao of sweetness and tenderness like a flag that calls out love as the most beautiful decoration. The heart is a symbol of unity and gathering, the heat is a universal message. Angelo conceived this work listening to the great love songs of the Chinese Popstars. The theme of feelings characterizes almost all Chinese songs, love as the center of the world, central like the attention that every woman desires. A fabric talisman that makes every woman feels like Aphrodite: the goddess of love. 
? 作者介绍
出生于1978年的意大利艺术家和时装设计师,从小就梦想着成为一名时装设计师。1995年,他在意大利乌尔比诺开始了他在时尚界的职业生涯。加入新锐品牌Yezeal后,设计师走上了一条基于爱和积极向上的创新之路。
An Itlian Artist and Fashion Designer born in 1978 in the countryside, he has been dreaming to be a fashion designer since he was young. His career in the fashion industry started in 1995 in Urbino, Italy, while attending the prestigious “Scuola del Libro”. The recently-created brand “Yezeal” grew fast in celebrity and Angelo entered a new path of creativity, based on love and positivity.  


30. 人与花无彩与彩 - 景宇鹏  Human &Flower   Monochrome&Color– Naci Jing

? 作品介绍
在一些地区,战火仍未平息,城市被摧毁。当地居民庆祝的,是我们看来可能只是一些微不足道的事情。中国也有着令人心痛的曾经,如今的繁荣与和平来之不易,我们更应该懂得珍惜。我将无彩色与有彩色结合,希望大家铭记过去,珍惜现在!
旗袍采用黑色与白色半透明真丝面料,运用面料复合与刺绣工艺展现。
There are still flames of war in some regions where cities have been destroyed. People in these regions are celebrating things that are trivial in our eyes.Our country also has sorrowful history. Prosperity and peace we have gained today have not come easy so we should cherish that.I combined achromatic colors with chromatic colors to show that we should remember the past and treasure what we have today.
The fabric of my Qipao is two layers of translucent silk, black and white. Fabric bonding and embroidery technique have been applied in my garment.
? 作者介绍
1998年出生于中国山西省;服装设计师、原画插画师;擅长雕塑、雕刻、刺绣等手工艺;热爱艺术创作;现就读于上海视觉艺术学院德稻实验班。
Naci Jing,who was born in Jiangxi,China in 1988. He is a fashion designer and a concept artist. He is a junior student in SIVA Detao advanced class and devotes himself to art and design. He is also good at sculpture,engraving,embroidery arts and so on.


31. 七个“十” - 虞靖怡  Seven Crosses– Joy Yu

? 作品介绍
旗袍最初的灵感来源于当代抽象艺术家丁乙的画作《十示》系列。设计师提取了画中的颜色,再加入了荧光系的年轻颜色,将新兴的PVC面料和胶注切割面料双层叠加,通过彩线刺绣来将两者材料贴合做成新面料,同时个人设计了全新的绣法和工艺,使得传统旗袍具有现代未来感。丁乙先生的作画风格代表了典型的坚韧不拔、自强不息的中国精神,多数作品都描绘了他对生长的这片土地和历史变迁的感慨、沉思、祝福、庆贺。人们透过“十示”亦体会到一个奋进、欣欣向荣又充满故事的中国。“十示”已然成为中国当代艺术的一个标识。大大小小各色的“十字”既向丁乙先生致敬也代表了我国发展大大小小、日新月异的变化,中国人民在一步一个脚印的奋斗中苦尽甘来。
The original inspiration of my Qipao comes from the painting “Appearance of Crosses” by Yi Ding, a contemporary artist of abstraction in China. I extracted the color from the painting and added some fluorescent colors. I combined two layers of fabric: PVC and adhesive cutting fabric, adopting colored thread embroidery technique to make my new fabric. Meanwhile, I created my own embroidery and technique to inject a contemporary style into traditional Qipao. One end of the embroidery thread was stitched to the fabric and another end was kept loose and decomposed into traditional tassels. The shape of embroidery is related to the idea of symmetry which Chinese people traditionally pursued. The colors are well-proportioned and cascaded, looking like modern abstracted version of peony, the national flower of China and deliver the meaning of auspiciousness.
The painting style of Ding represents typical Chinese spirit, which is hard-working, persistent and resilient. Most of his paintings demonstrated his feelings, reflections, blessings and celebrations of the soil that nurtures him and historical changes he has felt. Through “Appearance of Crosses”, we can see that China is forging head, prosperous and full of stories. His painting has become a symbol of Chinese contemporary art. Embroidering crosses in different sizes and colors is my way to show respect to Mr. Ding. It also symbolized that China is changing with each passing day and Chinese people are working steadily, having a happy life after all those sufferings.
? 作者介绍
就读于上海视觉艺术学院德稻大师班葛特立工作室。爱好色彩系的设计及简雅风格,把Karl Lagerfeld 和Alber Elbaz作为自己的时尚偶像,并乐于接受和学习各种艺术风格。
Joy Yu studies at Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, Detao Masters Academy, Studio Gottelier. She loves colorful and elegant design. She has regarded Karl Lagerfeld and Alber Elbaz as her fashion icons and is willing to accept and learn different kinds of styles of art.


32. 重岚叠嶂?墨染旗袍 - 龚航宇

? 作品介绍
通过泼墨的手法,让黛色浸染的山峰与碧水相连,使穿云见月的手法再现布匹的肌理之上。一侧斜肩设计,如断崖衬托山峰陡斜,另一侧长袖如风,潇洒随意,如泼出去的墨。
设计师用抽象写意的手法对传统旗袍做了一次颠覆性的结构重组,让流动的立体造型代替镶边,局部的造型镶嵌归拢了无限写意流淌的墨韵,点睛又不枯燥。
This pattern links the mountain and water together by splashing ink. The shoulder slope on one side represents the cliff and mountain slope. The long sleeve on the other side is like the ink was splashed. 
Designer has reengineered the structure of traditional Qipao. Using the contouring to replace the normal embroiders, and showing the flowing ink in part of the dress to make the dress looks fascinating and inviting. 

? 作者介绍
香黛宫首席设计师、国家龙腾奖十杰设计师、旗袍文化国际交流大使,世界华人杰出工美大师。毕业于武汉大学,之后到韩国和法国学习服装设计,青年时代游学近40个国家。
Hangyu Gong is the chief designer of Chantel Gong, International presenter of Qipao Culture. She was graduated from Wuhan University, and then studied aboard to South Korea and France in Fashion design. 

二、廓形之变

33. 云裙 – Phoebe English

? 作品介绍
考虑到可持续性,我们一直致力于在工作室中创造尽可能少的浪费,所以我们将竹丝剪下的部分融入到丝绸欧根纱中,参考传统旗袍的丝绸。我们用白色来代表西方婚礼文化的传统色彩。
Working with sustainability in mind, we always aim to create as little waste as possible in the studio so we have incorporated off cuts of bamboo silk, trapped inside silk organza to reference the silk of a traditional Qipao. We have made it in white to represent the traditional colour of our own Western wedding culture.
? 作者介绍
高档女装和男装品牌, 服装的制作讲究精确和美观。艰苦的建筑形成了设计精神的中心,包含了对精加工和纺织品的毫不妥协的关注。通过对失传、遗忘或很少使用的技术的复兴,希望能唤起人们对建筑而非装饰的尊重,为年轻的伦敦设计带来新的维度。

PHOEBE ENGLISH is a luxury Women swear and Menswear label. Garments are created with attention to precision and beauty. Laboured construction forms the centre of the design ethos, which embraces an uncompromising attention to finishing and textiles. PHOEBEENGLISH hopes to raise a respect for construction rather than decoration and bring a new dimension to young London design. PHOEBE ENGLISH is exclusively made in England.


34. 风衣旗素 –杨桂东 Samuel Guiyang

? 作品介绍
这是一款从现代出发的创新式作品,其中融入了现代的风衣外形与旗袍的立领特色。干净利落的设计和古典优雅的气质在这件服装中一览无余。同时这也是一件对现代服装的可发展性元素的探索的成果。
This is a modern work of creativity. This dress is using the shape of coat and the collar of Qipao to explore the potential elements fashion can have in a dress. The dress is smooth and clean in look, as well as an elegance of feeling inside the dress. 
? 作者介绍
杨桂东是SAMUEL Guì YANG品牌的创立人,85后的年轻设计师。
SAMUEL Guì YANG (1988, China). Multi disciplinary design studio based in London. Garments, objects and printed matter.

35. 叠 - 吕越

? 作品介绍
作品《叠》利用丝网印技术,错开定位的蝴蝶图案,经过缝纫出现层层叠叠的效果,旨在表现不断变化的世界。可谓:“这个世界唯一不变的就是时时刻刻的变化”。
Via screen printing technique and mismatching the butterfly patterns, after sewing then resulted with the layered effect. It is to emphasise the changing world, like the saying, “the only unchanging thing is the change itself”.
? 作者介绍
吕越是教授、设计师、艺术家、策展人,中央美术学院时装设计创建人。她是中央美术学院教授,时装艺术国家同盟首席副主席,中国美术家协会会员,中国美术家协会服装艺委会成员,中国服装设计师协会学术委员会主任委员,中国服装设计师协会常务理事,中国流行色协会理事,时装艺术国际展策展人。她的时装艺术作品和时装设计作品在多个展览以及活动中展出,作品被多家机构和个人收藏。
LYU YUE (Aluna), Professor of Central Academy of Fine Arts( CAFA), Founder to Fashion Department, CAFA,Member of Chinese artists association, The chairman of the academic committee and managing director of China Fashion Association, Director of the China Fashion & Color Association, Curator of fashion art international exhibition. She has attainments in both fashion design and fashion art. Her works on fashion design and fashion art have been presented in more than 50 exhibitions and other activities, and collected by several institutions and individuals


36. 结 ? 金 – 刘君Jun Liu

? 作品介绍
作品体现对于科技概念的持续关注,同时围绕当代和传统展开思考,视觉上将材料语言和构成美学理念深度融合到时装设计中,利用数千片切割的材料折叠再设计,将大小不同的单元通过复杂的连结技术创造出对比起伏的立体空间形态,赋予作品以通灵剔透的视觉艺术效果,使服装通体如阳光下的矿物结金。
This Qipao was representing the continuously attention to the scientific concept. In the meantime, taking the thinking of contemporary and traditional, visual language and general materials constitute the aesthetic concept depth merged into the field of fashion design, use of thousands of pieces of cutting material folding design again, the links will be different to the size of the unit by complex technology to create the contrast of the three-dimensional space form, work with channeling and transparent visual art effect, make the garment component of mineral crystals, such as the sun.
? 作者介绍
刘君现任深圳职业技术学院艺术设计学院副院长、教授,中国美术家协会会员、深圳市服装设计协会副会长;作品曾在国内外多地展出、获奖,并有众多作品被各个博物馆收藏。
Jun Liu, the Vice-president and professor of Shenzhen Clothes Design Association. His works have been awarded, exhibited and were collected by multiple museums. 


三、潮流之选


37. Blue Dress - Francoise Hoffman

? 作品介绍
设计师这次带来以毛毡和真丝结合的旗袍作品,完美展现了轻薄与浓厚、飘逸与从容的相辅相成,展现出沉稳地一派大气。旗袍在真丝上使用印花图案,并配以混合毛毡制成成衣。
Fran?oise Hoffmann: Felt interpretation of a Qipao.
Title: Blue Dress.
Hybrid felt: printed photo on silk and merinos wool.
©fran?oise Hoffmann
? 作者介绍
Francoise Hoffmann利用粗纺羊毛纤维和不同面料的混合,创造出了原创纺织品。通过对纹理、色彩和印花的处理,她拓展出了广泛而多样的艺术词汇。几年来, Francoise Hoffmann已经开始把她的摄影图像融入到她的作品中,创造一种新的混合体。
Fran?oise Hoffmann creates original textiles using a mix of carded wool fibres and different fabrics. By playing with textures, colour and prints, she explores a wide and varied artistic vocabulary. For several years now, Fran?oise Hoffmann has started to create a new hybrid by integrating her photographic images into her work. She adds the vibrations of light kneaded into the fibres to her textile sculptures.


38. 橙之美 - Priscilla Shunmugam

? 作品介绍
这是一件时尚改良型旗袍,设计师以新潮的眼光对旗袍进行重塑,在大刀阔斧将旗袍向现代裙装靠拢的同时又保留了旗袍特有的古典优雅。设计师认为展现女性曲线是旗袍最为出众的理念,所以在所有的作品中都保留了这一收身的特点。
This is a fashion improving work of Qipao. Designer is looking through the perspective of fashion, and changing it to a modern dress but still keep the classical elegance of the Qipao. Designer believed that shining women’s body shape is what Qipao good at, so she keep this concept for almost all her design works. 
? 作者介绍
出生于马来西亚吉隆坡,母亲是中国人,父亲是印度人。20岁时,她被新加坡国立大学录取攻读法律。毕业后,在离开律师行业之前做过一段短暂的律师工作。2008年,她在英国的一年留学期间学习了制衣和裁剪。
Shunmugam was born Priscilla Tsu-Jyen Shunmugam in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to a Chinese mother and an Indian father. At age 20 she was accepted to read law at the National University of Singapore. Upon graduation, Shunmugam worked briefly as a lawyer before leaving the profession. In 2008, she spent a year in England, where she studied dressmaking and pattern cutting.


39. 旗袍新解 - Priscilla Shunmugam

? 作品介绍
设计师对旗袍时尚作出了与众不同的诠释。旗袍不止可以古典,也可以与时装相结合。设计师保留了旗袍特有的曲线设计,同时为了强调臀部曲线,她特意添加了三层渐变小短裙作为点睛之笔。其余则以黑色蕾丝覆盖浅粉作为主体,尽显优雅。
The designer has made a unique interpretation to qipao fashion. Qipao can be classical, but also can combine with fashion dress. The designer kept the special curve design of qipao, at the same time, to emphasize the curve of buttocks, she deliberately added a small skirt with three gradations as the finishing touch. 
? 作者介绍
出生于马来西亚吉隆坡,母亲是中国人,父亲是印度人。20岁时,她被新加坡国立大学录取攻读法律。毕业后,在离开律师行业之前做过一段短暂的律师工作。2008年,她在英国的一年留学期间学习了制衣和裁剪。
Shunmugam was born Priscilla Tsu-Jyen Shunmugam in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to a Chinese mother and an Indian father. At age 20 she was accepted to read law at the National University of Singapore. Upon graduation, Shunmugam worked briefly as a lawyer before leaving the profession. In 2008, she spent a year in England, where she studied dressmaking and pattern cutting.


40. 纯白 - Ms. Min

? 作品介绍
中国传统形制的简单洁白的连衣裙, 这是一件展现少女青春和纯洁的时尚服饰。
Simple white dress in a Chinese tradition design. It is a fashion dress to present a young lady’s beauty and purity. 
? 作者介绍
Ms. Min由设计师刘旻创办的时尚品牌,秉持着“简约中显丰富,柔和中带刚毅,经典中求摩登”的设计理念,在海内外广受欢迎。
Ms. Min is a fashion brand created by Min Liu. Her design concept is to showing the many in simple, strong in gentle, modern in classical. Her works impressed fashion people all over the world.


41. 碎花 - Ms.Min

? 作品介绍
少女时尚的另一系列。这件黑底碎花裙以黑色为基础色衬托少女的成熟,但又以整裙的碎花展现青春少女特有的活泼。
Another series of young lady’s fashion. This floral dress chooses black as the basic color to reflect a mature girl but also presenting the lively youth with the flowers on the dress. 
? 作者介绍
Ms. Min由设计师刘旻创办的时尚品牌,秉持着“简约中显丰富,柔和中带刚毅,经典中求摩登”的设计理念,在海内外广受欢迎。
Ms. Min is a fashion brand created by Min Liu. Her design concept is to showing the many in simple, strong in gentle, modern in classical. Her works impressed fashion people all over the world.


42. 月落翠柳间 - Samuel Guiyang

? 作品介绍
这是一件暗藏着许多小细节于一身的裙子,也是对多功能多部件合为一体件服饰的可能进行探索的成果。这件裙子包含着连衣裙、旗袍元素、小斗篷等多种不同的类型。乍一看似乎是无法融合的各类,但设计师巧妙的将其结合,成为一件无与伦比的时尚之选。
It is a dress with tons of details in side, and also this dress is a result of exploring the possibility of different clothes kinds combining in one. The dress has elements of one-piece dress, Qipao and cloak. It seems like those elements are impossible to combine, but they end up combining perfectly. 
? 作者介绍
杨桂东是SAMUEL Guì YANG品牌的创立人,85后的年轻设计师。
SAMUEL Guì YANG (1988, China). Multi disciplinary design studio based in London. Garments, objects and printed matter.
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